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  1. The thermal pad which you can put in between the SoC and heatsink will take care of the heat transfer. You can always opt to put a copper shim instead. Then pointing the heatsink upwards with the pin header soldered on that side too you have access to everything you need... Therefore in my opinion it is not a pointless board, and I do think the design is actually a well thought design (mechanically)...
  2. I have been searching the net for a display similar to this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Orange-Pi-7-inch-LVDS-LCD-Module-7-Touch-Screen-F-Raspberry-Pi-Car-GPS/1553371_32315435767.html . Unfortunately the original from the link is not available anymore and I am unable to find a good replacement. Does anyone have a good alternative they are using? Size wise a 7" or 10" (or even up to 12" :-) ) will do the job.. Thanks!
  3. If all the individual part are CE certified, and you have all certificates in hand, I think you can declare yourself that the complete unit is CE compliant. However be extremely careful with assuming that the CE marking on a piece of electronics coming from China actually means that it is CE compliant, and is not an indication of "Chinese Export". Stick to reliable suppliers, so no Aliexpress/Ebay etc, to get your parts. I would recommend Mouser/Farnell/Digikey/RS, and ensure you can get a copy of the certification. Then based on that, and your correct building/construction techniques can make a self declaration that the complete unit is CE compliant. I would strongly recommend looking at your local national standardisation body and/or IEC to make sure your construction is safe.
  4. Check: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/single-market/ce-marking_en https://cemarking.net/eu-ce-marking-directives/ http://europa.eu/youreurope/business/product/ce-mark/index_en.htm http://www.ce-marking.org/index.html Don't forget the RoHS requirement!
  5. I have updated the library (see post #3) to include a footprint with the 1x13 pin header, and an outline of a hat. The same still applies... Use at your own risk. Not tested!!
  6. Check if ntp is running...
  7. The footprint is the whole PCB, but not with the 1x13 pin header. So you have the outline and the mounting holes...
  8. I have made a footprint with just the 2x13 pin header.. Of course the library can be changed to add the 1x13 pin header. The footprint has not been tested, and it comes with about 0.00% warranty! Use at your own risk! OrangePi0.lbr.zip
  9. Maybe you should look up the protection curve of fuses. You'll see that a fuse needs time to blow when it's subjected to small overloads.
  10. I am looking for enclosures (cases) to mount Orange Pi boards in. I have the original enclosures, but they do not have any space for additional boards / wiring etc. And there is no way to mount the enclosure... I am wondering what other people use to mount the boards. If there are no enclosures available for OPi boards, maybe there are some available for other boards. I am not interested in Raspberry enclosures since I don't want to use RPis .
  11. The reason that I needed the dimensions is that I wanted to create an eagle footprint for a pcb I'm designing.
  12. @renaudrenaud; Thanks. I have used the ruler and it is a lot easier for sure!
  13. I have indeed the autocad files. I have draftsight to open them, but am not really capable to get a decent measurement from it. I have tried by selecting the elements and calculating using the coordinates, but some of the "measurements" seem a bit strange. Therefore I was hoping someone has a drawing / can add to the autocad files the dimensions / locations of the headers etc..
  14. Hello, I am looking for a dimensional (mechanical) drawing of the OPi Zero. I have found the dwg files at the orangepi website (see attached rar archive) but I am running into issues figuring out what the exact locations are of the holes & headers. Does anyone have a drawing like that? Or maybe an AutoCad wizard can help me with this using the original files.. Thanks! ORANGE_PI-Zero-V1_1_PCB-DWG.rar
  15. Zador; In my years designing / building all sorts of electronic circuits I have always used the datasheets as a reference starting point. I have also found out that in a lot of cases there can be improvements made, especially looking at voltage stability and noise suppression from voltage regulators. Yes, the datasheet recommends a electrolytic capacitor on the input and just a ceramic capacitor on the output.. However when you are looking at a load on a 7805 which will have a lot of higher frequency load changes, it is recommendable to use (preferably and low ESR) electrolytic cap on the output of the regulator.. It can prevent / solve strange issues.