tutorial Orange Pi One - adding USB, analog audio out, TV out, mic and IR receiver
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Orange Pi One PCB is designed to easy add almost all removed features from Orange Pi PC. Currently only RAM expansion is unprofitable.

To add 2 removed USB ports just solder wires to solder points as shown below on the photo:

Data lines for USB #3: points 1,2

Data lines for USB #2: points 3,4

Power can be taken directly from GPIO header or DC socket. OPiOne has no separate voltage regulators for USB ports like previous boards used to have.

This way I want to solder mini WiFi dongle (after removing the case and USB port) directly to the PCB.

 

post-828-0-38885500-1456680435_thumb.jpg

Tido, locchi93, iwalpola and 2 others like this

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Same way like above it is easy to expand OPiOne adding missing analog audio, mic and IR receiver.

1 - IR receiver RX line

2,3,4 - MIC1P/MIC1N/MIC-MBIAS

5,6 - LINEOUTR/LINEOUTR

Look at Orange Pi PC schematics to find out what extra components should be used to obtain full OPiPC functionality.

post-828-0-81327300-1456681834_thumb.jpg

rreignier, bozden, tkaiser and 1 other like this

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I just received my opi1 yesterday.

then now I see that the solder points are so tiny and wonder how one could solder wires there.

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I just received my opi1 yesterday.

then now I see that the solder points are so tiny and wonder how one could solder wires there.

 

 

Amazing. You looked at an image where a chip is shown that is 14x14mm in size and don't get the idea that these solder points nearby have to be rather tiny?

 

And now you're searching in a software forum (Armbian you know) for tutorials how to improve your soldering skills since you tried to save $5 and ended up with the wrong device for your use cases? Really?

Marc Draco and rodolfo like this

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(It's not wrong device: I have already known Opi1 to only have two USB ports/no IR recv/no TV out/etc when placing order and even knew nothing about those solder points back then. It's just good if I can use them.)

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Thanks for this usefull hardware info.

Although I only owns an orange pi plus since a few months

my main concern with all that kind of boards is that to build

a decent device from them you always end with a big box

hiding an horrible mess of cables in order to have all useful connections

switches and indicators on the right pannel.

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In my humble opinion it is not worth to save $5 and it's better to buy full OPiPC for $18.69. However for some simple applications like armbian server/NAS/home automation/etc OPiOne could be good enough. But for multimedia there are serious limitations. Most significant is memory - only 512MB. You can consider using only OpenELEC but still with some limitations. For example forget about 4k in h265 because OpenELEC uses too much memory and doesn't want to open such videos. Some plugins have memory leak issues (like YT addon). Forget about Androids - those for OrangePi need 1GB for comfortable use. Of course for analog audio you need to solder 2 very tiny wires which is rather difficult because it is very close to SoC and points are very tiny. Same for USB. It's not worth to save $5. Also I don't like CPU power management in OPiOne which makes it hotter than PC. I personally purchased One just for fun. And I love gadgets :) Maybe I will use it for multimedia, as OpenELEC dongle for one of my TVs. But only when jerney solves problem with HDMI-CEC support - I just want to use same remote for TV and multimedia. I don't need 4K, but YouTube can be problematic because it crashes frequently on One due to lack of memory.

I also don't want to wait for Lite which will have same limitations and additionally no ethernet port. WiFi is not huge benefit because I can buy WiFi dongle for $1.7 which is less than $2 price difference between One and Lite.

OPiPC is for sure most profitable buy currenly. I will rather wait for 2GB version of PC.

aegrotatio and Marc Draco like this

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Instead of participating in a soldering contest I looked at the OrangePiOne board and found two fully functioning USB ports ( regular and microUSB dubbed OTG ) ready to be used. Two fast connections or one fast and several slower ones via external hub for testing are usually plenty. If you need more - the solution is called OrangePiPc.

 

Please let us know who won the soldering competition and post some pictures of successfully added DIY USB host ports before hotgluing the mess to a repurposed old X86 PC with spare USB ports ;)

candratech and Marc Draco like this

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I received this board few days ago and soldering points are so tiny.

When you compare price Orange Pi One <> Orange Pi PC this article is pointless.

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Hello,

I was looking to do soldering usb part, but I don't know which pin is positive and which is negative. That marks in front of pins dont tell me which is positive and which is negative.

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Hello,

I was looking to do soldering usb part, but I don't know which pin is positive and which is negative. That marks in front of pins dont tell me which is positive and which is negative.

There are labels

1. USB_DM3 (USB#3 D-)

2. USB_DP3 (USB#3 D+)

3. USB_DM2 (USB#2 D-)

4. USB_DP2 (USB#2 D+)

The 5V and GND are from the GPIOs (I think), or may be take it from DCIN (5V)/GND near power jack J1.

 

Good luck, I want to see the result :)

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IR Receiver:

 

 

Orange_Pi_One_IR_schema.jpg

 

 

Thank you very much for copying MY picture without the signature of the author.

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Thank you very much for copying MY picture without the signature of the author.

 

Wow! Guess who made the original picture: http://linux-sunxi.org/File:Orange_Pi_One_Top.jpg#filehistory

 

Someone sent me two pictures from Orange Pi forums (which I've not visited since 5 months), I combined those two images in Photoshop so that the image alone should be significant enough to get the idea and forgot to mention "@GUTEK@ the greatest artist on planet" since I didn't even know that the great @GUTEK@ was responsible for creating this masterpiece of art (combining a screenshot from schematic with someone else's photo). I truly apologyze for my mistake. Will correct that immediately!

 

OMFG! It was such a mistake starting to support Orange Pi H3 boards. :(

manuti and lanefu like this

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OMFG! It was such a mistake starting to support Orange Pi H3 boards. :(

 

Well, your work is wonderful, and I really think you're doing a great job.  I think there's similar attitude problems at Banana Pi communities.

 

I want you to continue supporting Orange Pi H3 boards, for sure.  They are the most powerful working implementation I have found so far.

manuti likes this

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I've managed to solder AV-OUT, Audio Out and Mic In to the solder points. AV and audio out work without problem but Mic In has noise on output. I've tested all point (Positive, Negative and Bias) but all of them has  noise on output even with my designed Pre-amp.

With OrangePi Mini2 I solder the pre-amp to mic pins and there is no noise. Is there any difference between solder points on mini2 microphone on board and solder points on Opi ONE ?

Can you please tell me what's wrong and the correct way to plug a microphone to the board ? 

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Can you please tell me what's wrong and the correct way to plug a microphone to the board ? 

 

You've probably got the wrong board. OPI LITE has small MIC ;)

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I've managed to solder AV-OUT, Audio Out and Mic In to the solder points. AV and audio out work without problem but Mic In has noise on output. I've tested all point (Positive, Negative and Bias) but all of them has  noise on output even with my designed Pre-amp.

With OrangePi Mini2 I solder the pre-amp to mic pins and there is no noise. Is there any difference between solder points on mini2 microphone on board and solder points on Opi ONE ?

Can you please tell me what's wrong and the correct way to plug a microphone to the board ? 

Generally no pre-amp is needed for mic, schematic is the same as for orangepimini (NOT orangepipc!). Check the alsamixer settings also. In my case OPIONE mic works well.

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Generally no pre-amp is needed for mic, schematic is the same as for orangepimini (NOT orangepipc!). Check the alsamixer settings also. In my case OPIONE mic works well.

How did you attach the microphone ? I mean which point did you connect to MIC- and MIC+ ? Did you coonect the solder point directly to the microphone or did you use a circuit ?

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How did you attach the microphone ? I mean which point did you connect to MIC- and MIC+ ? Did you coonect the solder point directly to the microphone or did you use a circuit ?

The circuit was just like as in Orangepi-mini-v1_0_schematic.pdf, VMIC->MIC-MBIAS, MICM->MIC1N, MICIN1->MIC1P (look at the picture from post #2).

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I found the whole soldering action to the test points way to iffy. Alternative idea: Using pogo-pins on a proto board with 40 pin female header - provides the necessary pressure and long term stability as well as +5V and GND. Here used with OPi lite to add an extra USB port for "internal" bluetooth. On the Opi Lite, the test point closer to the CPU is USB D-. If I had a 3D printer, it could also look nicer as the holes for the pogo pins could be more precise :-). Thanks to the Armbian team for including bluetooth drivers in the distro - the whole thing works like a charm.

post-1607-0-15211900-1467971769_thumb.jpgpost-1607-0-28211300-1467971764_thumb.jpgpost-1607-0-53871300-1467971759_thumb.jpg

 

 

lanefu likes this

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that's a killer hack!

 

Tapatalk thinks its important to tell you im using tapatalk from a phone.

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Hello everyone.

 

I have a question for people who already managed connecting audio to Orange Pi One.

 

I have started with audio output. I have tried to connect like on picture, but without capacitors and coils (because I don't have it at the moment, have to buy :) ). Should I hear something with speaker-test -c 2 ? I haven't hear even any noise. My connection is correct?

 

With the MIC. Have you used circuit shown on picture?

 

I will appreciate if you could give me any tip. Thank you in advance.

 

maciejos

post-1676-0-33798400-1468992031_thumb.jpg

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There are no coils involved in these schematics.

Only capacitors and resistors.

For audio out you need an amplifier there is not enough level to drive

speakers or headphones directly

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There are no coils involved in these schematics.

Only capacitors and resistors.

For audio out you need an amplifier there is not enough level to drive

speakers or headphones directly

Thank you for answer.

 

Yes of course, resistors :)

 

Could you recommend any amplifier?

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Currently only RAM expansion is unprofitable.

Well, just for fun:

U-Boot SPL 2016.05-armbian (Jul 05 2016 - 17:48:07)
DRAM: 1024 MiB
Trying to boot from MMC1


U-Boot 2016.05-armbian (Jul 05 2016 - 17:48:07 +0200) Allwinner Technology

CPU:   Allwinner H3 (SUN8I 1680)
Model: Xunlong Orange Pi One
DRAM:  1 GiB
MMC:   SUNXI SD/MMC: 0

https://youtu.be/ux2U4yvx_Po

 

Obviously useless since the chips cost more than the price difference with Orange Pi PC.

 

Btw I didn't take care of the wires I soldered on audio output pads and managed to lift one (on another Orange Pi One)… It came of pretty easily, and it's not 

repairable.

Luckily I needed only mono audio output, but sadly PulseAudio doesn't want to work in mono mode, only stereo.

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Thank you for answer.

 

Yes of course, resistors :)

 

Could you recommend any amplifier?

 

 

 

 

Pam8403 board (class D so no real heat generated, but 3 watt stereo amplifier, and runs on 5vdc

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Here used with OPi lite to add an extra USB port for "internal" bluetooth. On the Opi Lite, the test point closer to the CPU is USB D-. If I had a 3D printer, it could also look nicer as the holes for the pogo pins could be more precise :-). Thanks to the Armbian team for including bluetooth drivers in the distro - the whole thing works like a charm.

 

Can you provide a link to the USB Bluetooth adaptor that you bought (aliexpress etc)? I wish to buy one for my Orange PI PC. 

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