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willmore

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Everything posted by willmore

  1. I'm seeing the issue as well. Got it from an apt update. I'll reinstall from an image. Thanks for all the good work!
  2. I was interested in improving the read performance of the SPI NOR flash in uboot so that booting kernels is practical. You mentioned the possiblity/need for DMA to get over the 64 byte buffer on the Amlogic SPI driver.
  3. Thank you martinayotte! I am working up to being able to help with the SPI driver.
  4. I have printed and am using the case by Farrukh. The hole locations seemed accurate. Also, the case is very, very cute. I printed it in orange and white--but the opposite of the render.
  5. Would disablign the entry in the DT be enough? I assume that has the entry for the GPIO that controls power to the Wifi unit? Do GPIO default to 'input'? That would leave it floating. Does it need to be actively driven low?
  6. I have no need at all for the built in wireless on an Orange Pi Zero board. Is there a way I can disable it entirely to save power? Through the DT or some other means? Thanks!
  7. @tkaiser, thanks, those links are very useful! Do you have a schematic of the NAS board? I didn't see one last time I was on the wiki. I'd love to look over that!
  8. With no drives attached, it does not show up on the USB bus. I was wondering how they were going to multilex the two USB slots in there with the SATA. I have no mSATA drives to test the slot with and I'm unsure how to hook up the power to a drive. I think I'll need to fiddle around a bit before I have an actual SATA drive attached to it. Also, yes, the host is backfed power from the NAS board.
  9. Okay, I took a multimeter to my NAS board. There isn't conductivity between the host side power and the jack on the board. There are two diodes in parallel that isolate the NAS board jack from the 5V the host provides. The diodes are in the direction that the jack *could* supply power back to the host. The two diodes are Schottky devices, so the voltage drop through them should be fairly low for the currents the Z can pull. That might be different for an H5 based host. @tkaiser, you probably have better data on that. My general observation is that the Z uses around half the current of the PC2. I'm going to try powering things on soon.
  10. @tkaiser: I had never heard that front pannel USB3 connections could be unreliable. I have them in three machines and I've used them constantly with no issues. I need to look into that. Thanks for the head up.
  11. Hello, all. My second OpiZ came today and brought a friend--a NAS shield. I posted about it over in the "OpiZ comes to market" thread, but it probably makes more sense to talk about the NAS side of things over here and leave that thread OpiZ related. Just looking at the board gives me the same questions as logjamin about the DC power. Clearly it makes sense to put a 5V jack on the NAS board as getting power over a micro-USB connector->GPIO header->JST connector->drive is suicidal for your data. I am curious if the 5V jack on the NAS back feeds the OpiZ. If so, that removes one of the annoyances of the Z--power over micro-USB. The kit I got came with three each: short male/female standoff, long female/female standoff, wide head screw. The problem is the flange around the head of the screw is so big that it bumps into the SATA connector right next to it--the other two holes have sufficient clearance. If they had stuck with using a second M/F standoff like in the picture at the start of this thread, all would have been fine. Trying to save a penny..... I clipped a small part of the screw flange off so that it could safely clear the SATA connector. I think I'm going to take the board back off and probe out the GPIO connector to see about the DC power issue. Surely they wouldn't expect the Z and the NAS to have separate power feeds. That leads to so many grounding problems, it's not funny. @tkaiser, you've asked this in a couple of threads and no one answered you, so I'll take a swing at it. Yes, you *could* put USB3 over a GPIO header. Most PC motherboards with USB3 have a header on them for a set of front pannel USB3 jacks. So, it is doable. Now, the spacing of the pins and the arrangement of them is likely to be sensitive and need some though (steal the layout the PC motherboards use ). So, a higher performing NAS hat could work that way. Heck, I should go look into that in more detail.... It might be as easy as adding the extra SS signals on another row of that connector which could yield a backwards compatable setup--where the new NAS board works on older 1x13 hosts and a 2x13 host can work with the old 1x13 NAS board. Hey, Steven, you listening? I'll test them for you? Of course, we'll need a SoC with USB3..... Okay, that's enough rambling. I'll go fiddle around with the board and see what I can find out.
  12. It probably makes more sense for me to post my observations over at https://forum.armbian.com/index.php/topic/3317-orange-pi-zero-nas-expansion-board-with-sata-msata/ instead of here.
  13. I printed a case for my PC2 today and reran the thermal soak using cpuminer. Old score (stock board, mainline kernel, no enhanced airflow) was around 3.2KH/s. Now, in the case it's running 2.6KH/s and is around 5 degrees cooler. So, it looks like the DVFS/thermal budget cooling code works pretty well. Shall I tape up the box so there's no airflow?
  14. Can do. I have a few USB<>SATA bridges I can use to compare it to. I can also do tests with those bridges on a USB3 host to show the headroom available. The potential reuse of the 13 pin header was what I was thining as well. The OpiZ+NAS is a silly combination. A Z2 with an H5 and GigE would make a lot more sense. I'll do as you requested and report back here when I have something.
  15. Hello, all! I got my second Zero in the mail yesterday (512MB w/2MB SPI). I also ordered the NAS board. Is there any kind of observations I can make or testing that anyone would like done?
  16. Understood. Any board to board comparison at this point would be for the purpose of "are we there, yet?" or "I think we can do better." FWIW, it still idles colder than my OpiZ--which is in a box and also does not have a heatsink. So, even without tuning, we're doing quite well on temps. That box uses 100 to 120mA at idle. Though I'm sure a box with 100BT and no HDMI is not a fair comparison.
  17. @zador.blood.stained: Yes, I started with the 27 nightly and did an apt-get update;apt-get upgrade and rebooted, so I have the most recent kernel as of 6 hours ago (plus any mirror sync offset). If there is a better way to report kernel version, I'll be glad to do it. I'll keep running tests and reporting stuff until someone tells me to stop. Every time I see a new kernel, I'll redo things. Oh, and please don't see my reporting of the idle power use as a complaint, it's just an observation. I am very impressed with everything. Thank you all!
  18. I'm not sure how much of the data you want to see, but it ran fine until 932MHz and there it stayed at 80-82C. As the max clock settings kept going up, the processor did not follow. So, for a stock board with middling/poor ventilation and no HS, that's the limit. Oh, power meter said 625mA at that point. Idle is around 250 and cpuminer was a little over 500. Anything else I can do?
  19. @tkiser Okay, so I'll run the script from #129 and record temps? Or just run it and see if the machine fails in some way?
  20. @tkaiser: Of course. I have a Pine64 as well. I'd be glad to run any testing on it that you'd like. I haven't had it up and running in a while, so I may need to run a few updates to get it current. What particular setup would you like me to test? Oh, my Pine64 also does not have a heatsink--it, like the PC2 are completely stock. I'm very impressed with both the PC2 and the work that all of you have done to get armbian running this well on it this quickly. Thank you.
  21. My PC2 ran 24 hours of cpuminer on four cores. No crashes, no syslog entries that indicate anything is wrong. Temps 70-75C. Clock speeds 1056/1080MHz. Hashes between 3.2 and 3.3KH/s. No heatsink. No fan. Board in a slightly enclosed space with no additional airflow enhancements. Image from 20170127. I'll reboot to the new kernel and try xhpl and/or Linpac.
  22. I'm trying out Armbian_5.24.170110_Orangepizero_Ubuntu_xenial_4.9.0.7z on my Opi0/512MB. The delay with the wireless is better than it was with the legacy kernel. But, the bandwidth is still poor: iperf -t 30 -c 192.168.0.5 -r ------------------------------------------------------------ Server listening on TCP port 5001TCP window size: 85.3 KByte (default) ------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------ Client connecting to 192.168.0.5, TCP port 5001TCP window size: 43.8 KByte (default) ------------------------------------------------------------ local 192.168.0.96 port 39736 connected with 192.168.0.5 port 5001 ID Interval Transfer Bandwidth 0.0-57.4 sec 256 KBytes 36.5 Kbits/sec local 192.168.0.96 port 5001 connected with 192.168.0.5 port 41207 0.0-31.3 sec 14.0 MBytes 3.75 Mbits/secIs that the expected behavior?
  23. I'm trying to find datasheets and figure out signal tracing on that board. My guess for the NOR flash is that it stores the firmware for the state machines in the USBSATA bridges. This is a good thing because bugs in the converters can be fixed ith updates to that firmware. In other USB devices they often store a VID/PID value as well as other device info--serial number, etc. If you could, would you be able to post higher res scans of the board? Please? EDIT: Found a very quick summary datasheet. NOR is for VID/PID, no mention of firmware in it, *but* it also says that it has a utility for updating the firmware. Maybe it's just not stored on the NOR? Or, maybe it's 'lost in translation'. No sign of a hub/downstream USB port. I'm really curious how the USB ports and the USB/SATA adapters share the two USB signals off of the 1x13 pin connector.
  24. I like the case! I just printed one. I flipped the colors. Seemed more sense to make the orange design in orange. I had to do a little trimming on the antenna hole and around the USB jack--near the back, mine have a fold that sticks out a tiny bit, maybe 0.2 or 0.3mm. 30 seconds with a hobby knife and it fit together just fine. I used M3x8 self tapping screws instead of machine screws--because I have a ton. They worked just fine. I would like you post, but I just signed up for the forum to make this reply and I guess the forum doesn't trust me with that kind of power, yet. So, here's my verbal thumbs up to you!
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