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Nanopi M4 V2 power issue


pkfox

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Hi all, unfortunately the USB power port on my Nanopi M4 V2 has broken off and I can't see a way to reattach it securely - it looks like it's just a push fit onto the board on 4 little tabs no solder involved no wonder it eventually fell off. I've heard that it's possible to power the Nano via the GPIO pins  - anyone here done that  - I'm not to clued up with all things electrical but I can solder ? I'm thinking I could make a cable to connect to the pins

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Should work by applying 5V to pin2 and GND to pin6

 

Check pin diagram here:

http://wiki.friendlyarm.com/wiki/index.php/NanoPi_M4V2

 

Did not try on a Nanopi board myself before but since the pins are the same as on OPi boards I assume it is just fine.

You could solder or try to get your hands on some jumper wires and plug those in

grafik.png

 

 

Edit: Yeah should work according to wiki:

Quote

Power Input : 5V/3A, via USB Type-C(USB PD Specification is not supported) or Pin2&Pin4 of the 40-pin GPIO1 header

 

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On 4/8/2021 at 12:02 PM, Werner said:

Should work by applying 5V to pin2 and GND to pin6

 

Check pin diagram here:

http://wiki.friendlyarm.com/wiki/index.php/NanoPi_M4V2

 

Did not try on a Nanopi board myself before but since the pins are the same as on OPi boards I assume it is just fine.

You could solder or try to get your hands on some jumper wires and plug those in

grafik.png

 

 

Edit: Yeah should work according to wiki:

 

Hi Werner, thanks for this, I've got some cables like that - they will push onto the pins OK but I still need to connect the other ends to my power supply - I find the pin diagram very confusing where are pins 2 and 6 ? do you count from the USB port end or the other ? Edit no worries I found some numbers printed on the board

 

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5 hours ago, pkfox said:

find the pin diagram very confusing where are pins 2 and 5 ?


It begins at the far end of the USB. Pin 39/40 are next the USB.
When you use these jumper wires it is best to power with 2 power wires and 1 GND. So pins 2 and 4 you power with 5V. And pin 6 ground.
The M4V2 can consume up to 2A. Many jumper wires are not made for such high load. So dividing it over 2 wires makes sure there's no too much resistance.

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That's useful to know Nico thanks - I have it working with just two - how can you feed to two power pins ? I'm using a USB 2 cable which has four wires but I assumed two of them were data only so I only used the red and black - are you saying the data wires can also provide power ?

 

Edit

I've just checked and the ones I'm using ( Dupont ) can handle up to three amps

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1 hour ago, pkfox said:

That's useful to know Nico thanks - I have it working with just two - how can you feed to two power pins ? I'm using a USB 2 cable which has four wires but I assumed two of them were data only so I only used the red and black - are you saying the data wires can also provide power ?

 

Edit

I've just checked and the ones I'm using ( Dupont ) can handle up to three amps

While I have your ear - can I buy a replacement USB C socket that I could affix to the board and solder the two wires to - that would allow me to still use a case. Hope this makes sense.

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1 hour ago, pkfox said:

them were data only so I only used the red and black

correct.

1 hour ago, pkfox said:

are you saying the data wires can also provide power ?

no.

 

What he meant to say is that it might be necessary to feed the board with 2x 5V and 2x GND in order to compensate voltage drop across connectors and wire. Boards start to behave weird and malfunction due to under-voltage.

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4 minutes ago, Werner said:

correct.

no.

 

What he meant to say is that it might be necessary to feed the board with 2x 5V and 2x GND in order to compensate voltage drop across connectors and wire. Boards start to behave weird and malfunction due to under-voltage.

I understood what he meant but how can that be done ?

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Either you tie two jumper wires to each red and black of the USB cable or use a charger with two USB outputs.

 

pin connector wise you can use 2 and 4 for 5V and like 6 and 14 for GND.

 

However just try with one pair of wires connected and if it works just fine you dont have to do anything. Only if you recognize strange behavior try with double feed.

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9 hours ago, pkfox said:

- can I buy a replacement USB C socket that I could affix to the board and solder the two wires to -

You could make a small hat for it with a usb-c connector that goes on the voltage pins.. Or with a full size USB A port for easier soldering, or a barrel jack.
I also would advice to check voltages on the M4V2 its usb ports. Max out the cpu and see if it doesn't go much under 5V. The M4V2 can stay stable at low voltages. But for the storage device it could be bad.

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5 hours ago, NicoD said:

You could make a small hat for it with a usb-c connector that goes on the voltage pins.. Or with a full size USB A port for easier soldering, or a barrel jack.
I also would advice to check voltages on the M4V2 its usb ports. Max out the cpu and see if it doesn't go much under 5V. The M4V2 can stay stable at low voltages. But for the storage device it could be bad.

Thanks for the info Nico but I can't visualise what you're suggesting

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I was wondering if anyone else out there has shared in my frustration with M4 model of NanoPi and it's issue displaying through the HDMI port. I have tried multiple distros as well as HDMI displays, I have tested the HDMI cable (all good). The unit is receiving proper power, I am using a 5V 3A wall outlet supply though a USB type C. The microSD is inserted and seated properly (I've also tested with the eMMc flash addon). The M4 powers on, first, both green and red LEDs flash. The red LED stays lit while the green is off and that's it. Nothing else.

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On 4/20/2022 at 10:49 PM, gulsimsur said:

I was wondering if anyone else out there has shared in my frustration with M4 model of NanoPi and it's issue displaying through the HDMI port. I have tried multiple distros as well as HDMI displays, I have tested the HDMI cable (all good). The unit is receiving proper power, I am using a 5V 3A wall outlet supply though a USB type C. The microSD is inserted and seated properly (I've also tested with the eMMc flash addon). The M4 powers on, first, both green and red LEDs flash. The red LED stays lit while the green is off and that's it. Nothing else.

I have posted on the FriendlyElec forums but no one there seems to know (or they would reply). This is my last attempt to reach a larger knowledge base before I accept that I bought a DOA board. dickssportinggoods feedback www.lowes.com survey

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