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  1. The Orange Pi RK3399 has 5V and 3.3V available on the 40-pin header (and nowhere else that I can see offhand). Pinout is in the manual; it's a standard .1"/2.54mm header - lots of connector options. The mSATA interface is a bit inconvenient (uncommon); it also has 3.3V power available - perfect for an mSATA device; not much use if you're adapting it to a 2.5" device. I didn't check to see how much power is available, but I'd expect it to be fine for typical devices.
  2. "Were", at least, likely rectified by now. There were a few posts earlier this year.
  3. I haven't tried the most recent kernels, but video was a bit spotty with the mainline as of a few months ago. Looks like Rockchip's status page: ...hasn't been updated recently. Anyway, the 4.4.x has worked well for me, but I... have basic needs (e.g. NVMe not disappearing). Rather like IBM (up to the '80s, at least), nobody gets fired for choosing Samsung SSDs. Pricey (compared to the NanoPC-T4), but reliable.
  4. pfry

    NanoPI M4

    Nice work. You're even crazier than I am. And your soldering skills are obviously superior to mine.
  5. pfry

    NanoPI M4

    Get a NanoPC-T4, which has handy pushbuttons? The NanoPC-T4 schematic sheet 17 has its "boot" button (ground EMMC_D0, essentially); sheet 26 has the "recovery" button (ground ball AH 26/ADC_IN1). EMMC_D0 is pin 1 of the NanoPi M4's eMMC header - a bit tough to reach, given its surface mounting on both the M4 and the eMMC module. The best way would be via a (presumably custom) module inserted between the M4 and the eMMC module, but that's a bit of work, unless you plan to do it a lot(!). Using the solder pad(s) should be possible if you have a finely pointed contact and a steady hand. Good luck
  6. Found one: The linked site is unfamiliar, so caveat emptor. Search term (e.g.) was "lp4 cable f-f"; you may find other parts/sources. I'd verify the pinout before application. If you're careful (or you have the factory tool) you can dismount the contacts from the housing(s) and re-order them. Naturally, you can build your own as well.
  7. I was just referring to the RK3399 boards (given the extra regulators for the A72s and GPU, it's apparent that the RK808/818 was designed for a less power-hungry SOC), but yeah, it's pretty obvious to me now (!) that the implementations vary. A lot, considering the relatively minor variances, mostly in the peripherals (audio codec, W-Fi, eMMC, etc.). The Realtek Ethernet phy is pretty much a standard, at least. What a tangle. Nothing that can't be solved with enough time and money. It's too bad both are tough to come by.
  8. Scroll down to sheet 27 of the schematic. The 1.8V power is for the PCI-e phy (power/enable/both? - I didn't look that closely), not the slot itself. If the RK808 wiring is board-specific it could explain a lot of the difficulties with individual boards (I haven't compared 'em).
  9. The board power design is interesting. I'd expected a more (even more?) uniform reference implementation across RK3399 designs. The RockPro64 uses a 5V 3A regulator to power... well, the board, essentially. The NanoPC-T4 uses a 3.3V 8A regulator for the same purpose, so it has no additional regulator for its M.2 slot, while the RockPro64 has a 3.3V (in this case) 2A (3A peak) regulator for its 3.3V bus (which includes the PCI-e slot). So Friendly makes 25W available on the NanoPC-T4 where Pine64 has 15W for the RockPro64 (the power domains appear to be equivalent); in addition, 2-3A seems low
  10. I prefer the Supermicro for build quality: It may be possible to locate an OEM version for less money. I'd also lose the 40mm 15000RPM fan (may or may not be an exaggeration) and use something different to push air through it. One of my favorites is the Sanyo Denki (same brand that comes with the Supermicro), e.g.: The counter-rotating fans give you good static pressure for use with filters. Note that you'll want to use
  11. Whoa, I'm not. I'm a total leech on y'all's work, and I have no desire to cross-compile an image. (I prefer PC-style native installations like LFS and Gentoo - from an end-user perspective Armbian is the least-customized distro that I use.) I've had no issues with my NanoPC-T4, and the super-easy eMMC+NVMe install is unique (afaik). Can't beat it with a stick. I can't contribute much, as all I have in excess is Internet bandwidth and old PC hardware (and somewhat off-the-rails forum posts).
  12. ? I'm guessing you didn't look closely at the splitters. They're just SATA power "Y"s: each has one SATA power "device" connector and two SATA power "cable" connectors (I'm too lazy to look up the accepted nomenclature). Plug them into the power cable that came with the hat and you get "Molex" (really AMP Commercial Mate-n-lok) -> 4 SATA power "cable" (there's no wrong way to plug them together, so long as you only plug compatible connectors together and do not loop the cables; but the best way is to plug each splitter into the original cable, rather than plug one splitter into the other).
  13. I'm the last person who should accuse someone else of overthinking an issue (as though it's a bad thing), but you may be missing an opportunity to get your boards running the way you want it. If you grab two of the the splitter cables linked by [frauhottelmann] (they're far from the only option, but StarTech is a safe bet, and those are "shipped from and sold by Amazon"), you should be good to go (for one board/drive set), since you said you have a 12V power supply. You can then grind on the details to your heart's content, with a bit of added information/experience. You might decide to stay w
  14. I got it wrong: I assumed the 12V input on the hat was a simple passthrough, but it's not - it has a 5V 8A regulator as well (and I make an example of myself again with a stupid answer to a simple question, because I didn't do my research). Interesting, as your posts in the "Nanopi-M4 SATA HAT" thread seem to show that you can run 5V-only devices without an external supply (so I'm only half-stupid). [frauhottelmann] has the best recommendation for you (two splitters plus 12V supply). Two power supplies and a cable chain is a bit untidy, so if you're bored in the future you could whip out a dua
  15. Bah! I should have said that the power output connector on the hat is a standard, old-style PC 3.5" power connector, a Commercial Mate-n-lok (I forgot about the silly spelling there, too), but most likely you'd need SATA connectors for the devices - they're also readily available (and more easily locatable via search, as it's a bit tougher to find the precise Mate-n-lok). I really expected to hate the SATA power connector, but the crimp-style has lots of room to solder and add heat shrink tube. (The IDC-style is designed for 18g wire, a bit bigger than you'd need, especially if you're making a