pfry

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  1. The Orange Pi RK3399 has 5V and 3.3V available on the 40-pin header (and nowhere else that I can see offhand). Pinout is in the manual; it's a standard .1"/2.54mm header - lots of connector options. The mSATA interface is a bit inconvenient (uncommon); it also has 3.3V power available - perfect for an mSATA device; not much use if you're adapting it to a 2.5" device. I didn't check to see how much power is available, but I'd expect it to be fine for typical devices.
  2. "Were", at least, likely rectified by now. There were a few posts earlier this year.
  3. I haven't tried the most recent kernels, but video was a bit spotty with the mainline as of a few months ago. Looks like Rockchip's status page: http://opensource.rock-chips.com/wiki_Status_Matrix ...hasn't been updated recently. Anyway, the 4.4.x has worked well for me, but I... have basic needs (e.g. NVMe not disappearing). Rather like IBM (up to the '80s, at least), nobody gets fired for choosing Samsung SSDs. Pricey (compared to the NanoPC-T4), but reliable.
  4. pfry

    NanoPI M4

    Nice work. You're even crazier than I am. And your soldering skills are obviously superior to mine.
  5. pfry

    NanoPI M4

    Get a NanoPC-T4, which has handy pushbuttons? The NanoPC-T4 schematic sheet 17 has its "boot" button (ground EMMC_D0, essentially); sheet 26 has the "recovery" button (ground ball AH 26/ADC_IN1). EMMC_D0 is pin 1 of the NanoPi M4's eMMC header - a bit tough to reach, given its surface mounting on both the M4 and the eMMC module. The best way would be via a (presumably custom) module inserted between the M4 and the eMMC module, but that's a bit of work, unless you plan to do it a lot(!). Using the solder pad(s) should be possible if you have a finely pointed contact and a steady hand. Good luck, as a bad slip could cost $100. As for recovery mode, finding a particular ball or trace would make dealing with the surface-mounted eMMC header look super easy. Kinda odd - am I missing them, or does the M4 have no buttons at all? Edit: Hm. Not sure how suppressing the eMMC on boot helps you. But hey.
  6. Found one: https://www.infinitecables.com/power-cables/internal-pc-power-cables/12-inch-lp4-female-to-lp4-female-internal-power-cable/ The linked site is unfamiliar, so caveat emptor. Search term (e.g.) was "lp4 cable f-f"; you may find other parts/sources. I'd verify the pinout before application. If you're careful (or you have the factory tool) you can dismount the contacts from the housing(s) and re-order them. Naturally, you can build your own as well.
  7. I was just referring to the RK3399 boards (given the extra regulators for the A72s and GPU, it's apparent that the RK808/818 was designed for a less power-hungry SOC), but yeah, it's pretty obvious to me now (!) that the implementations vary. A lot, considering the relatively minor variances, mostly in the peripherals (audio codec, W-Fi, eMMC, etc.). The Realtek Ethernet phy is pretty much a standard, at least. What a tangle. Nothing that can't be solved with enough time and money. It's too bad both are tough to come by.
  8. Scroll down to sheet 27 of the schematic. The 1.8V power is for the PCI-e phy (power/enable/both? - I didn't look that closely), not the slot itself. If the RK808 wiring is board-specific it could explain a lot of the difficulties with individual boards (I haven't compared 'em).
  9. The board power design is interesting. I'd expected a more (even more?) uniform reference implementation across RK3399 designs. The RockPro64 uses a 5V 3A regulator to power... well, the board, essentially. The NanoPC-T4 uses a 3.3V 8A regulator for the same purpose, so it has no additional regulator for its M.2 slot, while the RockPro64 has a 3.3V (in this case) 2A (3A peak) regulator for its 3.3V bus (which includes the PCI-e slot). So Friendly makes 25W available on the NanoPC-T4 where Pine64 has 15W for the RockPro64 (the power domains appear to be equivalent); in addition, 2-3A seems low for a 3.3V domain that includes a PCI-e slot (alone rated at 3A). I'm not an EE and I haven't done any testing, so my opinion is worth less than the time it takes to read this. Still, it's interesting. The Samsung 970EVO consumes what? 3.3V 1.8A peak? I doubt the PCI-e -> M.2 card has any on-board regulation (to utilize the 12V power); other devices on the 3.3V bus include the USB, Wi-fi, Ethernet and SPDIF phys, and the eMMC - none likely to be a heavy draw. Aside: the NanoPC-T4 also has an 8A regulator for 5V (USB and audio). I'm paranoid, so I glued heat sinks to the SY837 and 838, the NB680 (3.3V regulator) and the RK808 on my NanoPC-T4. They don't even get warm. The RK3399, on the other hand...
  10. I prefer the Supermicro for build quality: https://www.supermicro.com/products/accessories/mobilerack/CSE-M14TQC.cfm It may be possible to locate an OEM version for less money. I'd also lose the 40mm 15000RPM fan (may or may not be an exaggeration) and use something different to push air through it. One of my favorites is the Sanyo Denki (same brand that comes with the Supermicro), e.g.: https://products.sanyodenki.com/en/sanace/dc/counter-rotating-fan/9CRA0912P0G001/ The counter-rotating fans give you good static pressure for use with filters. Note that you'll want to use a PWM controller with it* - it's hilariously frantic at full speed. Motorized impellers have generally better performance than axial fans, but are more involved to mount and duct. * I usually just use a potentiometer to ground. PWM presents a variable voltage, usually 0-5V; any fan that can run with an open PWM line has a built-in voltage source, which can be shunted to ground through the pot - no additional components needed. If you wish to control it via software, all you need is a PWM output. Probably more than you want to get into, but what the hey.
  11. Whoa, I'm not. I'm a total leech on y'all's work, and I have no desire to cross-compile an image. (I prefer PC-style native installations like LFS and Gentoo - from an end-user perspective Armbian is the least-customized distro that I use.) I've had no issues with my NanoPC-T4, and the super-easy eMMC+NVMe install is unique (afaik). Can't beat it with a stick. I can't contribute much, as all I have in excess is Internet bandwidth and old PC hardware (and somewhat off-the-rails forum posts).
  12. ? I'm guessing you didn't look closely at the splitters. They're just SATA power "Y"s: each has one SATA power "device" connector and two SATA power "cable" connectors (I'm too lazy to look up the accepted nomenclature). Plug them into the power cable that came with the hat and you get "Molex" (really AMP Commercial Mate-n-lok) -> 4 SATA power "cable" (there's no wrong way to plug them together, so long as you only plug compatible connectors together and do not loop the cables; but the best way is to plug each splitter into the original cable, rather than plug one splitter into the other). If we're still not connecting (so to speak), grab a friend and run this thread by 'em.
  13. I'm the last person who should accuse someone else of overthinking an issue (as though it's a bad thing), but you may be missing an opportunity to get your boards running the way you want it. If you grab two of the the splitter cables linked by [frauhottelmann] (they're far from the only option, but StarTech is a safe bet, and those are "shipped from and sold by Amazon"), you should be good to go (for one board/drive set), since you said you have a 12V power supply. You can then grind on the details to your heart's content, with a bit of added information/experience. You might decide to stay with what you (will) have. Pre-built systems are convenient. You'll certainly not save time (in the short term) with a custom solution, and if you save money, you're a better man (person?) than I. The benefits lie elsewhere. Not the least: you can help others here. (Speaking of overthinking, I won't run a NAS without ECC RAM and a RAID of some sort. That gets expensive, in both time and money. But cosmic rays, man! Cosmic rays!)
  14. I got it wrong: I assumed the 12V input on the hat was a simple passthrough, but it's not - it has a 5V 8A regulator as well (and I make an example of myself again with a stupid answer to a simple question, because I didn't do my research). Interesting, as your posts in the "Nanopi-M4 SATA HAT" thread seem to show that you can run 5V-only devices without an external supply (so I'm only half-stupid). [frauhottelmann] has the best recommendation for you (two splitters plus 12V supply). Two power supplies and a cable chain is a bit untidy, so if you're bored in the future you could whip out a dual-output supply and custom cabling. Or not. Looks like you're using Crucial MX500s. Crucial doesn't have an easily-locatable power spec, but the photo appears to read "5V 1.7A". I'd definitely recommend using the 12V power input on the hat with four of those. If you run saturation benchmarks on them you could heat up the regulator on the hat, but I doubt it. (One way to find out, and it'd be tough to tell how it's doing without a wee thermocouple or an IR thermometer.) It has two USB ports, too, with the tiny, irritating JST PH2.0 connectors. Nice that they put the pinout on the (back of the) board.
  15. Bah! I should have said that the power output connector on the hat is a standard, old-style PC 3.5" power connector, a Commercial Mate-n-lok (I forgot about the silly spelling there, too), but most likely you'd need SATA connectors for the devices - they're also readily available (and more easily locatable via search, as it's a bit tougher to find the precise Mate-n-lok). I really expected to hate the SATA power connector, but the crimp-style has lots of room to solder and add heat shrink tube. (The IDC-style is designed for 18g wire, a bit bigger than you'd need, especially if you're making a 1->4 splitter.) The M4 seems to be another device where you can clobber the power supply if you try hard enough. In terms of 5V current, the RK3399 SOC and board needs 2-3A, 2 USB 3 can consume 2A, 2 USB 2 1A, the SATA hat itself is negigible, but 4 SATA devices 2-4A = 7-10A. Not a likely scenario, but you could do it with, say, a USB HDD, a USB Blu-ray, a couple random USB 2 devices, four power-hungry 5V SATA devices (e.g. the Samsung 830 Pro was rated at 1.6A) and the slightly overclocked RK3399. Squeezing 8A out of that scenario would be easy, at least for a short time. Not that you need to worry about it so much, but be aware that power could be an issue as you plug more stuff into the board.