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I did a lot of power consumption tests with my NanoPi R6C and noticed something strange when switching from kernel 5.10.110 to kernel 5.10.160. Hardware NanoPi R6C 4GB 32GB Sandisk High Endurance microSD Card Ugreen 18W USB Power Supply Software Armbian 23.5.1 Nanopi-r6s bookworm Default settings (only changing fdtfile=rockchip/rk3588s-nanopi-r6s.dtb to fdtfile=rockchip/rk3588s-nanopi-r6c.dtb in /boot/armbianEnv.txt) Switching between legacy 5.10.160 and legacy 5.10.110 kernels with armbian-config With just 1Gbit Ethernet and the power supply connected in idle (measured at wall): kernel 5.10.110: 0,92W kernel 5.10.160: 1,21W I also tested different M.2 SSD, with ASPM L1 enabled/disabled, HDMI and USB devices connected/not connected. I even tried different usb power supply. In every case the power consumption with kernel 5.10.160 is higher with no apparent benefit. You could argue that it is not a big difference but when running the system from a battery it is! What is causing this increased power consumption? I tried to run a lot of commands to find the difference between the 2 kernels but could not find a significant one. WinDiff between the 2 kernels:

I'm using Tinkerboard with USB connected SATA HDD for 5 years as 24/7 server and had no similar issues with powering. The device is powered by dual USB socket power supply (1x USB to power TB, 1xUSB to power HDD via Y-USB cable). I would start with metering voltage or plugging cheap voltage monitor between power supply and TB. Try also USB power supply providing 5.2V instead of 5.0V It should also work when power is only provided to TB USB output (from external powered USB hub) I had similar issues with Raspberry Pi 3B - with similar configuration (USB 1xHDD 2,5") and main indicator of failure was undervoltage - (vgencmd indicated ) and changing power supply did not help. The only solution I've found for it was to programatically power cycle Raspberry Pi built-in USB hub every time when HDD was not available.

probably a post bragging of my christmas gifts, but mostly just documentation because it really confused and stumbled me from the get go so, my setup was powering tinkerboard (the first revision, without the new fangled eMMCs) via GPIO because it confused the hell out of me how to power this beast. this was powered through the XL4015 buck converter 12.1/12.2 V on input, with ammeter and voltmeter included on the board. (the board was current limited to 5A, because why not? the rk808 is 6A tops) ok from the get go the board powers (not load tested, just power through and run kodi-gbm UI) from 3.4V to 6.2V. undervolting or overvolting it doesnt shuts itself down (no red light), then bringing back to operating voltages boots the board up also take not that operating voltages for RK808 was 2.7V to 5.5V. the missing 0.7V was probably the diode drop people are talking about. maybe? without a multimeter (only using the power supply's voltmeter-ammeter) i can't check it that much. but i'm fine that it has wide range of operating voltages. on all observed voltages, 3A seems to be the max current. it needs to be sustained though. also full load without peripherals (and HDMI, HDMI seems to be active than passive) is observed 2.3-2.5A. booting up the board needs about 0.7A to keep on going this would probably contradict as well the "increase voltage to 5.25 or smthing" given that no matter how many volts you put into it, it would only use 3A. weirdly (since this contradicts the block schematics from tinkerboard), #1 and #2 are observed in both USB and GPIO with no difference (significant or not) under load. it's weird since 3.1. if USB lines were protected, there should be a diode drop *only* on USB lines. but this was seen on GPIO as well. 3.2. some claims microUSB only has max 2.5A but this is not seen in this case: the setup sustained 2.7A going 2.9A. also, powering both GPIO and USB with the same power block doesnt seem to affect stability at all (still hard limits at 3A.) so with that, there are few suggestions for powering the board as well (and minor observations. opinionated parts ahead) people talking about overvolting or undervolting the power rails doesnt really help at all at slightest. it'll still top at 3A. what overvolting could help were powering via USB peripherals, but i wouldnt recommend it plugging straight given the fact that 2.5A on full load? you only have 0.5A to spare on heavy load. get a usb y splitter (tape over the USB power lines to the board. idk why but i have usb resets whenever i dont have them. then again plugging a hard drive in there shouldnt be happening in the first place) the raspberry pi 3B+ adaptor (5.25V, 2.5A)? good enough actually! as long as it can deliver 5V across the device, AND as long as you dont have power heavy devices on it. it doesnt matter that much so long as your USB cable can handle phone-charger level of amps. rk3288 was designed with mobile phones in mind. it'll always power at 3.7V. i always having issues when im using a cable that can only do 0.5A across it. no can do. probably for me, but this is why you dont need to be hung with the minor details. starting from this, im wracking my brain around if tinkerboard was sensitive to power drops (like 5.1v or 5.2v would show stability improvements) but nope! just chuck it right in, it'll be fine. just check your connections and stuff. powering through the GPIO pins is recommended of course, but it's an overkill. probably the reason for it was most USB chargers only go 2A max and that would underpower the tinkerboard, doing boot loops instead of starting correctly. then again YMMV: my place has 3A or 5A chargers everywhere. and with the introduction and interests of fast chargers, you'll find chargers (and cables) that can deliver more than you expect. on sidenote on powering through the GPIO: PLEASE GET YOUR GAUGES RIGHT. i powered it via the ATX FDD (remember those?) connector, with 12V pin removed. it turns out for some reason its max current is 1A and its just thin flimsy as hell. get a thicker wire. it didnt drop the current (thankfully) but the wire became so warm to touch, it's weird. i wouldnt wanna run this on full load. at least i didnt get burned wires. cooling fan helps a lot also you cant bypass that 3A limit. that's 3A total, both GPIO and USB inputs. even powering both USB and GPIO (like that one person suggested) doesnt really do anything. you wouldnt get that much power in, but at least you can protect your wires? which is weird since block schematics shows GPIO and USB has different lines? so it should have different protections and stuff. a multimeter can help see if those inputs are shorted (GPIO vs microUSB vs peripherals) but i dont have one at the moment i would also like to measure the voltage across the peripherals if any load situations will lead to undervolting the outputs, but i dont have a USB tester at the moment. RK808 seems to be programmable but interfacing with it is outside of my skill set. any help would do i hope this post helps everyone well. no one uses these boards anymore except for niche use cases but i still enjoy it. i hope in the future i can get myself a huge NAS server with an RK3588S on it. kinda lonely to be honest

Recover OrangePi 5 Plus Download: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/19SMZHj1Y8l_Vvr6_SMDHYdJHi41hMgsI Press and hold the MASKROM button, then plug in USB power and release the MASKROM button Open a terminal in Linux and install "rkdeveloptool" *Note, I saved all the files in that URL to /home/$USER/opi5plus then "cd opi5plus" | use "sudo rkdeveloptool ld" to see if your device can be seen (plug in USB cable from PC to the USB-C connector opposite the power). opi5plus$ sudo rkdeveloptool db MiniLoaderAll.bin Downloading bootloader succeeded. opi5plus$ sudo rkdeveloptool ul MiniLoaderAll.bin Upgrading loader succeeded. opi5plus$ sudo rkdeveloptool td Test Device OK. opi5plus$ sudo rkdeveloptool rd Reset Device OK. Make sure you have a freshly baked SD card installed with your Linux flavor of choice then power off, install the SD card and boot up!

USB won't be enabled automatically by those "Plus 2E" images, at least because it looks like their bootloader's device tree (FTD) doesn't enable the USB1-VBUS switch that powers the Plus/Plus2 on-board hub, and also directly feeds the USB power line to one pair of USB ports. The later wouldn't provide any current, unlike the other pair which is always powered regardless of any software settings. Then a simple way to know if this is related would be to find a USB device that can turn-on in some way (like lighting a led) even when only plugged in a USB charger, and test if it also turns on as well plugged into one of the USB port pair, but stays off with the other.

Hi all, unfortunately the USB power port on my Nanopi M4 V2 has broken off and I can't see a way to reattach it securely - it looks like it's just a push fit onto the board on 4 little tabs no solder involved no wonder it eventually fell off. I've heard that it's possible to power the Nano via the GPIO pins - anyone here done that - I'm not to clued up with all things electrical but I can solder ? I'm thinking I could make a cable to connect to the pins

I have a Banana PI M2 Zero that I am using to run a 3D printer. Unfortunately the USB port puts out 5V, which I need to disable. Is there any way to do this by editing a file or using a script? There are cases where it might be useful but I'd rather have it off permanently if thats the only choice.

Hello, BPi M5 freezes after a couple of hours running randomly. - use armbian Armbian 23.02 Bullseye ( 6.1.11) - same effects with Armbian Bookworm CLI kernels 6.1.x 6.2.x Now tried Sinovip Ubuntu (kernel 4.9.x ) aud it is running for days ! form their Homepage armbian from Sinovip page link also freezes... Why Armbian ( or Kernel 6.x ?) freezing . also found that USB power (for my data-USB-HDD) will be switched OFF during boot mostly . tried uhiubctl with permanant switch ON .. -> starts better - can ust USB-HDD in fstab ... but System freezes (include: USB no longer with power ) Is there any script to be change during boot or depends it to kernel ? hidden powersave options ? I want use it for a 24/7 running System (nextcloud) - any ideas ? g.l Fred

Hello folks, I plan to build a power bank or a ups for my Orange Pi Pc H3. Here is the log dump for more info: http://ix.io/2kMo I have been using my Pi PC as a full fledged desktop thanks to all you Armbian contributers. We have occassional power outages and to counter the issue I'm planning to build an alternate power source. After some online search I found that some of the IOT boards support usb power banks as a power supply, hence would like to know if Pi PC H3 supports this feature or can be programmed? Another option is to use a MoPi board, not sure if Pi PC H3 supports the board. https://pi.gate.ac.uk/pages/mopi.html

I've tried a few images of the latest builds. None of them start. Odroid starts to power the screen and I see blinking lights, but screen goes dark and it seems to cycle like this. I use USB power for it and a powered hub (so basically no power output to USB dongles, etc.)

Hi all, unfortunately the USB power port on my Nanopi has broken off and I can't see a way to reattach it - it looks like it's just a push fit onto the board on 4 little tabs no solder involved no wonder it eventually fell off. I've heard that it's possible to power the Nano via the GPIO pins - anyone here done that ? I'm thinking I could make a cable to connect to the pins

So looking at my aft section print I discovered some issues. I'm working on the CAD drawing a bit today I may or may not be done and update the GIT repo with updated CAD files today. I am also adding a wire retainment setup for the power wire with a filler peace. That will allow the usb power cable to go in the back and be neat.

Hi there, I'm looking for a USB power supply that would be mounted into a rack, so that I can power up quite a few boards at the same time. These boards would also be in the same rack. I found a big rackable USB hub, but that's not what I am looking for, and 2.4A max per slot may be too weak for some of the boards. I could hosts several smaller USB hubs too, but that does not sound really enticing. My other option is to make it by myself with salvaged server power supplies, a patch panel, bits and bobs, but it will take longer... Would you have any recommendation? Thanks.

weird "bumping" this old question but here are some of my findings, just quick answer (my tinkerboard runs on 2x USB-SATA HDD's, 1x 2TB, 1x 500gb, and 1x 1.5TB external hard drive) 1. flash firmware on your USB-SATA. it shuts down every 10 minutes or so, depending on the chip, but other firmware dont have those issues (eg, those HDD cloners). check your SATA-USB controller for reflashing. this is left as an exercise to the reader. 2. remember that tinkerboard isnt 4x usb but rather 2x USB device, 1 lane is reserved for the audio controller and the other lane is split to a Genesys 4USB hub controller. since this is USB2.0, you're stuck at 480Mbps, around 60MB/s transfer rates. since it's half-duplex, it's halved to 30MB/s on the hub alone. expect a max throughput of 30MB/s shared. real life performance may vary: i sometimes get full 30MB/s on one device, sometimes, all devices are just the slow. depends on your use case, 30MB/s is just *slow* that's pretty much it about my experiences on the device. now i'm getting a used 500GB HDD running e2fsck. i hope it works well, for 2 days it seems okay. this is while one HDD runs tar while the other does downloading. also be wary of power consumption: 3A on the whole device (take note without peripherals, tinkerboard runs at ~1A on idle and ~2.5A on full load) . go beyond that will cause instability (either boot issues, or in my case USB hub stops working.) i wont recommend using a hub (no issue in power, but slow-downs are a real pain in the butt) but instead those USB-Y splitters that split the device's power. use a separate USB power brick to power the devices alone (i taped my power lines going on the device's side, just to be safe.)

Hello, can someone help me with my problem. I have a ROCK64 with 4GB of RAM and an ARMBIAN 5.75 stable Ubuntu 18.04.2 LTS 4.4.174-rockchip64, installed. My issue come with usb ports, from the three USB of the this device only works two: one 2.0 and 3.0. And when i have a disk connected towards usb 3.0 i have issues with port usb 2.0, it doesn't work well and I end up disconnecting the USB 3.0 to can work with my device connected towards USB 2.0 so I assume that the current power on the USB port is having issues or it's not working well. Anybody an idea? thanks!

https://forum.armbian.com/topic/11857-free-software-supported-wifi-card-phone-usable-esp8089-esp8266-esp32/ It says, that adding an usb ar9271 wifi card to a pinephone is not feasible because the wifi card uses to much power. How much power is acceptable for an usb ar9271 wifi card to use? I do not have extended equipment. I made the following arrangement. One pc. Connected an usb power meter. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61fKDfC3pgL._AC_SL1000_.jpg Connected an usb ar9271 wifi card to the usb power meter. Started an youtube video. After that downloaded an ubuntu image. Distance to router about 10yards. One brick wall. Usb power meter displayed about 5.1v and 0.16a. Is that much? To much to use on a pinephone? The modem on the pinephone has an usb connection. About the modem, why is the power consumption not a problem? I know connecting an usb ar9271 wifi card to a samsung i9100 replicant phone is working terrible. Infrequent disconnects, battery power level has to be above 90%. Thanks.

Hi, I am using Armbian 5.90 on an BananaPi as a RTL-TCP server for an RTL-SDR stick which plugs in the USB port. Everything work fine since more than a year. Now since one of the latest updates, the RTL-TCP server doesn't work anymore 24/7. After a while, I can not connect to the server anymore. I studied the logs and it seems, that kernel/udev/upowerd powers off the USB-port where the RTL-SDR stick is plugged. The stick reinitializes, but the binding of the stick to the running server gets lost. There seems to be something new to the kernel/system which cyclically drops the USB connection to my stick. Any ideas, how to avoid this "feature"? Thank you in advance. Regards, Thorsten

The USB Promoter Group has just pushed a press release about the “pending release” of the USB4 Version 2.0 specification that promises up to 80 Gbps of data performance over the USB Type-C cable and connector. The group also explains both the USB Type-C and USB Power Delivery (USB PD) specifications will also be updated, and everything will be published right before the USB DevDays developer events planned for November 2022 in the US and South Korea. So that’s basically an announcement about a future announcement, but we were still provided with some highlights of the upcoming USB4 v2 specification: Up to 80 Gbps operation based on a new physical layer architecture, using existing 40 Gbps USB Type-C passive cables and newly-defined 80 Gbps USB Type-C active cables. Updates to data and display protocols to better use the increase in available bandwidth. USB data architecture updates now enable USB 3.2 [...] The post USB4 Version 2.0 to enable speeds of up to 80 Gbps, introduce “active” USB cables appeared first on CNX Software - Embedded Systems News. View the full article

@Elrie Try taking the board out of the Dock and putting it back in. Also check the USB power supply line. Set the base image for verification (20211230_LicheeRV_debian_d1_hdmi_8723ds.7z). If the problem has not been resolved, then carefully visually check the surface of the board for defects, sometimes this helps to understand the cause of the problem.

So the question is "why does disconnecting and reconnecting power cause a shutdown SBC to boot?" If I have an SBC and I shut it down (e.g. using "shutdown now") then it enters an inactive state. However, I haven't done anything with the power supply - the board is still powered. So what changes in the state of the board as a result of cycling the power? If nothing changed then it would continue in the same inactive state as before? But instead, it boots up when power is restored. I'm guessing the answer varies by board. On the Raspberry Pi it seems that on doing a shutdown the shutdown process writes a volatile magic number that can be read by the bootloader - so shutdown and reboot are indistinguishable except for this magic value, In both cases the system essentially reboots and it's the bootloader that decides what happens next. If it can read the magic value then it puts the system into a very low power state, i.e. essentially shutdown. If the magic value isn't present (or has been lost as a result of being power cycled) then the bootloader instead lets the normal boot sequence continue. On the Pi, the shutdown has only really paused the boot sequence - if you pull the GPIO3 pin low then the processor is brought out of its lower power state and the boot sequence continues. Interestingly/oddly I can't find any really definitive reference for this behavior - it just seems to be generally well known (e.g. it's described in this Github comment by the Kodi developer popcornmix). Is this typical behavior or is there similar typical behavior that's observed by many SBCs? I'm interested as I have a Jetson Nano and I want to determine how one might get it to boot after it's been shutdown, without actively having to disconnect and reconnect the USB power supply. What typically changes in the state of the board as a result of power cycling and is there generally a way to achieve this without doing a power cycle? I'm most interested in safe approaches that don't involve power cycling, e.g. pulling GPIO3 low on a running Pi does nothing, i.e. is safe, it's only when it's been shutdown that it does something interesting and allows the boot sequence to proceed. I asked this question on the Nvidia Nano forums but didn't get very far. I thought people on the Armbian forums, with experience of many SBCs and their behavior during shutdown and boot, might have some insight.

I've got an OPi Zero v1.1 for a home project, It was supposed to be something very simple, connect the board to wifi, make a web app for external control and switch a power relay, I did finished it and everything was working fine but I had sudden disconnections and one day just didn't wanted to reconnect, I've read before about how this board has an horrible wifi chip and trying to avoid further headaches I went and bought an USB WiFi dongle TP-LINK_TL-WN725N, I got it today and connected it to the board using its 13 pin header, then I powered it on via micro usb and worked right out the box, no need for extra config, to finish it off I rewired it to this little box where I have it tucked away aaaand didn't work... After testing why I found that the wifi would work only on the microusb power with my laptop, inside the box where it was working before I have this AC/DC 5v 1A module which power the OPi through 5v pin of the expansion header and relay (1 channel model), whenever I tried using the converter in the box the wifi didn't work, looked like it didn't even power since there was no led activity of the dongle, but the board itself was powered and booted correctly, or at least that is what I believe because the board led would behave the same as when it would boot and connect to wifi. In short, when I power it via microusb usb wifi works, when I use the 5v 1A converter mentioned above it doesn't, and for a last test I disconnected the relay from the circuit to feed just the OPi but wifi still wouldn't work, then I read this answer about usb power, if right it would mean that my laptop isn't supplying more than the ac/dc module, or is it wrong?, also I have video output and onboard wifi disabled, I really don't know what I'm missing here.

I guess that many of these issues may come from a bad/unsuitable power supply and microusb connector that is not able to deliver proper current to USB when there is higher demand. Are you feeding the tinkerboard with a microusb connector and a generic USB power adapter or via GPIO pins? I have had no particular issues with a raspberry pi microusb power adapter rated at 5.1V/2A, but didn't really try demanding devices to USB ports

Hello friends! I Am using 3G modem(Huawei E171 connected by OTG cable) on my OPi One for internet, but one problem - modem after few days working freeze. Reboot don't help because not full power off on USB, and after reboot i don't see modem in /dev. Only after physical remove modem and install again it's initialized and work fine. Question: Can i power off USB from cli? # uname -a Linux orangepione 3.4.113-sun8i #18 SMP PREEMPT Thu Jun 15 02:16:06 CEST 2017 armv7l armv7l armv7l GNU/Linu # lsusb Bus 008 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 007 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 006 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 005 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 002 Device 002: ID 0bda:8179 Realtek Semiconductor Corp. RTL8188EUS 802.11n Wireless Network Adapter Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 001 Device 003: ID 12d1:1003 Huawei Technologies Co., Ltd. E220 HSDPA Modem / E230/E270/E870 HSDPA/HSUPA Modem Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub # ls /dev/ttyU* (in normal state) /dev/ttyUSB0 /dev/ttyUSB1

I was curious if anyone had worked on power management for the S905X. My Le Potato was idling around 0.32A@5.1V = ~1.5W The LibreElec guys documented idle current ~2/3 of that here so I was curious what was going on. Of course I am running a 4.18 armbian kernel (I assume they were using a 3.14 kernel for their tests) so I was never going to match their numbers precisely, but 33% more power seemed like an awful lot. Then I realized I had a USB thumb-drive installed, so I did some experimentation... My numbers were generated using an inline USB power meter that measures pretty accurately compared to a bench meter. My initial findings: Idle with no USB connections: 0.215A Idle with 16GB USB3 stick in USB port 1: 0.291A Idle with 16GB USB3 stick in USB port 2-4: 0.323A Idle with USB2UART in USB port 1: 0.225A Idle with USB2UART in USB port 2-4: 0.257A Idle with 2 USB2UART adapters (ports are irrelevant)" 0.280A It should be noted that enabling autosuspend for USB: echo 'auto' > '/sys/bus/usb/devices/<...>/power/control'; Does drop the idle power back to 0.215 when USB is not in use. I don't need the thumb drive, but I do need 2 USB2UART adapters plugged in and running all he time, so autosuspend isn't very helpful for my use case. I may look into disabling the serial console and use that instead of one of the USB2UART adapters, which should be able to save me ~55mA. Does anyone else have any recommendations to lower the idle power? This box will sit at idle most of the time, and my goal is to be able to run it for 24hours from a ~100Wh battery. On the RPi, it is possible to disable LEDs and HDMI to save some power. Are there similar setting for the LePotato?

Hi all Does anyone recall if with kernel 4.9 it is required to put some patch for enabling power on the USB Host port of BananaPi? I am using vanilla kernel in another project, (LEDE) and when switching to kernel 4.9 I don't have any power from the USB port The dts is the vanilla one and AXP20x power driver is enabled Thanks!