All Activity

So I recently loaded the x86 Armbian 6.12 - Ubuntu 24.04 (Noble) server image onto a GEEKOM Air12 Lite N150 (wow that was a mouthful), only to find the ethernet port missing... turns out the Motorcomm YT6801 Ethernet Controller it uses is not in the mainline distro and has to be built manually. I have so far referenced the following resources about this: https://github.com/albertogviana/YT6801 https://github.com/dante1613/Motorcomm-YT6801 https://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?t=438301 https://deb.tuxedocomputers.com/ubuntu/pool/main/t/tuxedo-yt6801/ and run the gamut for two days straight without much luck. First the linux headers were not installed, so I installed them through armbian-config, only to find out they were still not available because potentially the headers are for 6.12.41 are not available? https://mirror.twds.com.tw/armbian-apt/pool/main/l/linux-headers-current-x86/ (I don't see them listed here, I do see a 6.12.32 and a 6.12.44) Then I rolled back the Kernel to 6.12.32 and tried to install the headers again them through armbian-config, only to find out they were still not available?!?!? So I installed them by downloading the *.deb directly and manually installed them. Now I can get the latest tuxedo driver (tuxedo-yt6801_1.0.30tux4_all.deb) to build and install, but the module will not load. journalctl | grep "yt6801" shows .gnu.linkonce.this_module section size must match the kernel's built struct module size at run time here is the output from the install: root@Armbian:~# sudo dpkg -i tuxedo-yt6801_1.0.30tux4_all.deb (Reading database ... 79866 files and directories currently installed.) Preparing to unpack tuxedo-yt6801_1.0.30tux4_all.deb ... Module tuxedo-yt6801-1.0.30tux4 for kernel 6.12.32-current-x86 (x86_64). Before uninstall, this module version was ACTIVE on this kernel. yt6801.ko: - Uninstallation - Deleting from: /lib/modules/6.12.32-current-x86/updates/dkms/ - Original module - No original module was found for this module on this kernel. - Use the dkms install command to reinstall any previous module version. depmod......... Deleting module tuxedo-yt6801-1.0.30tux4 completely from the DKMS tree. (Re)load module if possible Unpacking tuxedo-yt6801 (1.0.30tux4) over (1.0.30tux4) ... Setting up tuxedo-yt6801 (1.0.30tux4) ... Loading new tuxedo-yt6801-1.0.30tux4 DKMS files... Building for 6.12.32-current-x86 Building initial module for 6.12.32-current-x86 Done. yt6801.ko: Running module version sanity check. - Original module - No original module exists within this kernel - Installation - Installing to /lib/modules/6.12.32-current-x86/updates/dkms/ depmod... (Re)load module if possible Warning: Could not load module yt6801. Any clues on what I might be missing? I'm not a hardcore Linux pro by any means, but I'm not a novice either. Any help would be much appreciated.

Do you get sound (HDMI) through your monitor speakers with the official vendor image?

https://fi.mirror.armbian.de/apt/pool/noble-utils/b/base-files/ They are in. Perhaps need some time for repo to get in sync.

Addressing the need for reliable hardware testing for RISC-V adoption, the RISE Project and Collabora added two RISC-V boards to Collabora's LAVA testing lab. View the full article

Building a rolling release is more than just showing that in the MOTD. If you do "sudo apt upgrade" in an OS image you just built, you probably will have zero or one packages to upgrade. If you start with an image built a long time ago, or with packages defined a long time ago, then "sudo apt upgrade" would take a long time.

I have the same debian as you: 5.1.4-xxx-v4l2request, installed over Debian Bookworm, with Linux 6.15 (OS built by myself). When I tried the ffmpeg-7.x.x-v4l2request for Trixie, I could not get hardware acceleration.

Banana Pi M2 Berry – My Advice This board is a pain. It can’t boot from SSD. An SSD can hit ~200 MB/s, but you’ll need a strong 5 V power supply – especially at startup it often needs 3 A or more. If it refuses to boot (happened to me a lot), the cause was almost always a weak PSU. Other issues: the V40 SoC has almost no proper support and was never optimized. That means no real 3D acceleration – if it works at all, it’s unstable. Sound output often doesn’t work, HDMI audio basically never worked for me. Wi-Fi usually works, but only 2.4 GHz and WPA2 max. If you want more, you’ll need a compatible USB stick – but even then you’re limited to ~15 MB/s because it’s just USB 2.0. If you want >100 MB/s, you’ll need to use the LAN port and write to SSD. Forget doing that on the SD card. To be honest, almost nothing that came out after 2020 runs well as an OS on this thing. The official ISOs are here: 👉 https://wiki.banana-pi.org/Banana_Pi_BPI-M2_Berry You can test them if you like – they all run “meh” at best. As I said, 3D acceleration is rare, and when it exists it’s terrible. Another option to test: 👉 https://docs.banana-pi.org/en/BPI-M2_Berry/BananaPi_BPI-M2_Berry For me, the best (and really the only sensible) choice right now: 👉 https://sd-card-images.johang.se/boards/banana_pi_m2_berry.html But it’s pure/light – console only. You have to install everything else yourself. If you’ve ever managed a root server, you know the path: tmux/screen for multi-window SSH, sudo apt install apache2 -y, MariaDB, mail server, SSL certificates (yes, free ones), dynamic DNS, Pi-hole, cronjobs, and so on. Everything works, but you’ll need patience and some hand-holding (AI copilots can help). If you don’t have time for all that: get something better. Realistically, all you can use this board for today is as a shell server. Nothing else works properly. Honestly, even an old smartphone is a thousand times better. That’s why the M2 Berry was already dirt-cheap when I bought it in 2017 (€18 😂💩). Bottom line: The only sensible use is as a shell server. For anything else it’s useless – the drivers are crap, the V40 has almost no support. An old laptop or smartphone will serve you better (and it will run latest linux and 3d accel..) and by the way SPI or something like that can be also used over special boards/esp2066/esp32 and more ... And Banana Pi M2 Berry as an emulator? Forget about it ... PS: To write proper image files on Windows, I use Rufus or PowerISO (on Windows 11, UAC probably needs to be turned off).

No, he's problem is much more simpler. He have JTAG and UART wired on his board, so it's not a problem to do virtually anything with his box. Are you sure? Have you successfully connected adb on PC to this tv box using usb cable?

It is shown on internet how to get maskrom, serIal, and more. Also there is a clue that this box should start with firefly dtb but not stated exactly. Things are different from 1997 now and getting this working without experience is very difficult. With kernel 4.4 you could try with android dtb.

I've a similar issue but on a different board nanopi m4v2. Could you also help me in troubleshooting the problem? In addition to video problems at 4K I'm getting also Bluetooth problems with my keyboard. Feel free to ask for extra info.

@Sergey LepeshkinThank you, is there anyway to get it out and reveal the cpu (may fake, but worth trying) Also, i don't even know why they put a fake update screen on a fake tv box but i found a guy with same problem on me : I don't know what to do, my box does have the usb debugging and i will try to debug it

Etcher used to be / is broken. https://docs.armbian.com/User-Guide_Getting-Started/#flash-to-sd-card https://docs.armbian.com/User-Guide_Troubleshooting/

There are those of us that spend months working on these things. There is nothing about this that is easy. It is a hobby to waste a lot of time on. If you really wanted to proceed further you are really going to need to hook up to the debug serial port to get an ideal of the boot messages that are occuring. From an earlier post it looks like the serial connection points were identified and hooking up a USB serial adapter to them would give more information. But getting a random TV box working is usually a many month project as a lot needs to be learned about this while environment first.

Well, I've been tinkering with different dtb's and Armbian versions, matching kernel 4.4 and using H96 Max RK3399 dtb as well, but the device does nothing. In fact, I entered the recovery to see if the SD card could be read and it didn't mount, then turned the device off through the button and now it does not turn on anymore. The red light does not go blue, I can still enter maskrom but if I want to boot Android normaly the device does nothing. I am kind of tired with this crappy TV box, wasting 2 days it's not worth it for something that costed 15€. My time is more valuable. Thank you for the help anyways.

The dtb files I've tried for rk3399 do not work, I've read that Firefly-RK3399 is very similar to this board, but even so it does not start. The small Rockchip chip is very difficult to see through a picture, at least with my phone camera. I tried with this picture: Anyways, I can write it here: RK808-D FAD7P841 1703

I've managed to pull out some system files out of it. Binaries is ELF 32-bit LSB executable, ARM, EABI5 version 1 (SYSV), so its not Allwinner H313.

Try to upgrade from 25.5.1 but base-files not present in repository. Missed again. @Igor can you fix it?

Hi! @Ducdanh Nguyen , which port have you used to connect it through adb? Those on the back side (where hdmi and power connectors located), or one of those on the right side (where sd card slot located)? Was it working in standard Android boot mode ("Debug over usb" enabled through "Developer settings") or somehow else? I also own such tv box and this is what I've found crawling web and playing with this device: 1. More PCB pics is here: https://4pda.to/forum/index.php?showtopic=1016510&view=findpost&p=136516719 2. "Heatsink" (just a small piece of thick aluminium foil) is bonded to SoC using 2-sided adhesive tape (I doubt it have good thermal conductivity). I recommend to replace it with more adequate heatsink. 3. SoC seems to be fake. It doesn't have Allwinner logo on it (there are 2 pics attached: one is ours, and one is genuine). 4. There is no AXP PMIC. Instead, there are 3 separate fixed step down converters. 5. There is no transformer in ethernet circuitry! Signals from jack goes directly to SoC. So be careful with static electricity while handling it's ethernet connection. 6. First button, located near "AV" jack, just resets tv box to factory defaults (if power switched on while it's pressed - and after that "update" screen with Chinese text on it will be shown). Purpose of second button (located near "S/PDIF" jack) is mystery for me. Can anyone suppose what it is for? 7. There are two exposed test points on the bottom side of pcb under SoC. Both tied through 10k resistors to +3.3V. After power-on, one of them seems to be some input (current between pin and gnd is about 3.3/10000=0.33mA), and other is definitely driven by something else (current is about 14mA and varying in both directions). I wonder if it's uart tx and rx pins - I'll see it with oscilloscope later. Anyway, shorting this test points together doesn't influence on boot process. 8. It's highly probable there is some backdoor (something like well-known Badbox 2.0). Original firmware exhibits some suspicious network behavior: just after factory reset, once it connected to network, it opens different connections to tcp port 12000 to hosts located in China. If I close outgoing traffic on firewall to tcp port 12000, after a while, it opens similar connections, but to port 9090 to different hosts. It seems to me it's trying to join some botnet. Furthermore, if you compare process list just after first (after factory reset) connection to network, and after it been connected for a while, you will find some new processes, which doesn't belong to Android and have strange names - I think it downloads something without asking user. Summary: this cheap tv box is a full scam. It seems to me manufacturer made all to prevent re-flashing of this device. But it will be very interesting to make something useful out of it.

Regardless of which version I boot ("official" or home built with current) , the apt repositories are the same. And after I apt update && apt upgrade the "current" release, the "rolling" message disappears from the MOTD. I understand that I should not care of these MOTD messages, the meaning is not what I thought it was.

Title, i just download the right version used balenaEtcher for flashing it on microssd and its stuck on blue light(booting), how i can solve it

Hi @Ed van den Enden, Looks like the on-chip RTC is used for initial time-setting by the kernel in your case. It also seems that the overlay to enable i2c is now loaded correctly! I can help with two options, you can choose which one you want to use: Option 1: Use the `rtc-sync` script with the cronjob and systemd modification. Option 2: Use the user-overlay that will move the I2C "external" RTC to the first slot, naming it `rtc0`. The on-chip RTC will move to the second slot, `rtc1`. Option 1 will need more modifications in your configuration, but will work nonetheless. You can find the script attached here: Put the rtc-sync script in /usr/local/sbin/. Change onwership/permissions: sudo chown root:staff /usr/local/sbin/rtc-sync sudo chmod 0775 /usr/local/sbin/rtc-sync Create the cronjob /etc/cron.d/rtc-sync as follows: #min hr mon day dow run-as command 30 * * * * root /usr/local/sbin/rtc-sync -Ad update Modify ntp service unit file by adding the following to the end of the file (/lib/systemd/system/ntpsec.service OR /lib/systemd/system/ntp.service depending on which ntp package you have installed): # Added to sync wallclock to an external RTC [Service] ExecStartPre=-/usr/local/sbin/rtc-sync -A -d start ExecStopPost=-/usr/local/sbin/rtc-sync -A -d stop Option 2 will require adding the user-overlay file and changing only your armbianEnv.txt. I can only give you the user-overlay i used that works for the orangepi zero, but as this uses the same CPU as your board, it should work. if it does not work, you will always have option 1 as fallback. You can find the user-overlay (rtc1-soc.dts) and the instruction on how to compile and add this to armbianEnv.txt in this topic here: The user-overlay is also included down here: In addition to the user-overlay, you will also need to disable the `fake-hwclock` service, as that tries to emulate a real RTC by reloading the last known wallclock from a file that was created when the system was shutdown/rebooted. Instructions for this also in the same linked topic. Pick your option and try it out. If it all works well, for option 2 you will find that the i2c RTC is named rtc0, for option 1 you will see i2c RTC is still rtc1, but the rtc-sync script, cronjob and systemd modification will use the i2c RTC to set the wallclock (after it's set improperly by rtc0). Feel free to check back in if it still does not work. Groetjes,

Maybe try another power adapter Or add to /boot/armbiEnv.txt extraargs=pcie_aspm=off nvme_core.default_ps_max_latency_us=0 pci=pcie_bus_safe Otherwise you could try an image of Radxa first, if that works then it might be an issue with the dtb

I have two of these cheap Chinese sticks and I was wondering if I could load a better OS onto them I think there's only a USB port

Or wait until the end of the year when 6.18 will be the new Linux version, that enables pretty much everything. RK3588 Mainline Linux Status: https://gitlab.collabora.com/hardware-enablement/rockchip-3588/notes-for-rockchip-3588/-/blob/main/mainline-status.md If you really need a bleeding edge working mediaplayer, LibreElec has experimental support for R6S/R6C: Thread: https://forum.libreelec.tv/thread/29953-le13-testing-for-rk3288-rk3328-rk3399-rk3566-rk3568-rk3576-rk3588/ Downloads: https://chewitt.libreelec.tv/testing/

That's why I am here To ask for help I could not find any installable packages I am a novice user